The 'other side' of the bridge

Yesterday we began the day with a delicious breakfast of French toast with red summer berries in syrup at Cafe Dumas, our new favourite place. This cost about £1.60!




Full, and with an icing sugar moustache, we crossed the bridge into Pest. We had intended to visit the Parliament building which is free to citizens of the EU.




We arrived just in time to join the back of a queue of around 1000 people stood, unshaded, in the 34 degree heat. We decided that whatever was inside probably wasn't worth getting baked alive for and quickly left the line.




The heat was unbearable and very tiring. So instead of going inside, we found a lovely shaded bench under the canopy of some trees, had a refreshing drink of water and did some people watching.

That's what most of our day consisted of: find shade, sit in it.

We had a pleasant meander through the back streets, protected from the sun by the shadow of ornate gothic buildings lining each side.




Soon we found ourselves at the Basilica of St Stephen (the first king of Hungary). Inside, we were in awe of the stunning architecture - vaulted ceilings, intricately carved stone, beautiful murals adorned everything, finer details touched with gold leaf.




At the back stood a huge golden organ so shiny it looked like it was polished hourly.




In a separate room there was a fancy bejewelled glass cabinet lit from the inside. On closer inspection we saw that it contained all that was left of St Stephen himself: his fisted, 974 year old shrivelled zombie hand, fingernails still intact (although in need of a good scrub). I hope my hands still look that good at his age!




After a very cosmopolitan lunch of a Subway sandwich and a packet of crips (I know, we're really living it up on this trip!) we decided to jump on a tram and head over to Memorial Park; the official graveyard for all of the old Soviet statues which were taken down from around Hungary at the end of the communist era in 1989. We didn't make it. We got completely lost - just goes to show, even Lonely Planet gets it wrong sometimes!

We headed back to the hotel, dumped my hefty camera equipment and wandered back down to Dumas where we commandeered a giant bean bag and a comfy lawn chair. I had an icy glass of homemade peach lemonade (delicious but I was up five times in the night after two glasses of that stuff) and rested our weary feet to watch the sun set over Budapest. Perfect!




After dinner we took our last opportunity to snap some moonlight photos of the river with boats and cars whizzing by.




The parliament building stood out against everything else and lit up the whole river. Even the "I'm loving it" sign, delightfully displayed by Mr McDonald, took a back seat in this light show.




Even at 10pm, the streets bustled with dog walkers, runners, cyclists, roller bladders and sweethearts smooching and sharing wine straight from the bottle on the walls of the banks.




This city has a pulse, the constant beat of life passing it by, and I love it!

Location:Budapest, Hungary

Hungary? I'm famished!

If you have never been to Hungary, I highly recommend that you go. Just do it. Book it. Right now!

When we arrived last night, it was already dark. We walked along the Danube watching party boats sail by with their lights glistening in the water below. All of Budapest's most impressive buildings and bridges were lit up to demonstrate their beauty. Car's lights flickered around like fireflies. A big yellow moon glowed, perfect, above. Couples and families strolling casually along the river sat on the walls to chat a while, with their dogs waiting patiently at their feet. Even tired and hungry, I could tell this was a magical place.

And I was right! When we checked in (D'art Otel), we were told that we had been given a free upgrade. They didn't say why. When we got to our room, it had double doors where all of the others only had one. This was the executive suite! One of the bathrooms is bigger than my living room! The bed is whopping, there is a living room, a study and a dance floor. Ok, I lied about the dance floor!




This morning we took the funicular up to Castle Hill on the Buda side of town. We took the back car so that we could see the landscape panning out in wide angle.




The views from the top were impressive. You can see for miles in both directions, every bridge, every building.




The castle grounds were surrounded by huge statue of birds with wings outstretched and lions standing proudly, mid roar.




We arrived at the start of a beer fest so we had a wander round looking at all of the different tipples on offer. It was before lunch so a bit early to drink any!
We were lucky enough to see the changing of the guards at the castle gates which was quite a spectacle. Think men in uniform doing synchronised gun stuff. Very nice. Ahem.




We had lunch from one of the stalls, I had chicken in mustard cream sauce with fried potatoes and onions. Delicious! I will try and replicate it when I get home!




We walked over to the cathedral which reminded me very much of St Vitus cathedral in Prague only much whiter and with a beautiful ornate roof in very Moroccan colours with zigzag and diamond patterns.




I'm seeing some kind of patchwork quilt here!




While we were there I held a hawk. Four year old 'tweeter'. She was beautiful and very well behaved.




Even when perched above my head, she didn't think to peck me (or poo)! Her wing span was about four foot.




Later, we went back down the hill to one of the famous thermal spas (Gellert Baths). The water was 36 degrees celsius, which in a colder climate would have been just what we needed. Here, though, it's 34 degrees so it didn't really help! The interior was stunning though, mosaic from floor to ceiling, with little windows in the roof to allow the light to come streaming through. There were several baths indoors and out, ranging in temperature from what felt like -62 to 36 degrees. we stayed in until we were sufficiently pruned and then ventured back out in to the golden evening sun.




The perfect end to a perfect day.

Location:Budapest