Hogmanay 2012/13 - Day 2

Ten, nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three, two, ONE!!!




Happy new year!




Out with the old and in with the new! Time for some changes and exciting new adventures!




These photographs don't even nearly do justice to the spectacle we witnessed last night. As the midnight canon was fired from the castle, the whole sky was lit by a million fireworks of every variety you could imagine!




The perfect end to a not so perfect year.

Location:Edinburgh, Scotland

Hogmanay 2012 - Day 1

We decided, last minute, to take a trip up to Edinburgh to take part in their three day Hogmanay celebrations.
After a very early morning and a five hour drive through some of Scotland's prettiest countryside, we finally reached our apartment mid afternoon - just in time to have a wee nap before the party began.
Day 1 kicks it all off with a bang - a torch lit procession from Chambers Street up to Calton Hill followed by a Son et Lumiere and fireworks finale.




This year's procession broke a world record with more than 40,000 people from all over the world making their way up to Edinburgh to take part. So many, in fact, that when the first people reached the top of the hill, thousands had still not even left the starting point and never made it as far as the end point.




The torch bearers were led by Shetland’s Up Helly Aa’ Vikings and massed pipes and drums with police escorts through the streets and up the hill.




The sound of the bands could be heard from miles around, like the Pied Piper calling for more to follow. Seeing the snake of flickering orange flames coming across the bridge sent you back thousands of years to a time when Vikings would march in the masses by torch light - just like this - to fight and steal treasure.



Once as many people as could fit had reached the hill, the real celebrations began. First, traditional music from the bagpipes and drums, then flame dancing by Pyroceltica. Again, we could have been in any era but 2012.




After the dancing, we were all turned around to face a huge bonfire where fireworks erupted from a 2012 figure atop the stack. For some reason they couldn't get the fire started and spent about half an hour messing about with kindling before the flames took hold.




And to conclude the evening - one of the most impressive fireworks displays I have ever seen.




I stood shoulder to shoulder with the crowd, my head tilted back and my mouth wide open, watching with awe as the sky above lit up in a glittering rainbow of fire.








When it all finished, I shouted "again!"

Location:Edinburgh, Scotland

Heron a good time

Sorry about the terrible headline, I couldn't resist!

I've just been out for an early morning walk with Maddie along the river behind our house. The trees on the crags are a patchwork of autumnal shades and the first morning rays lit the whole scene golden.

Just as I was remarking to Maddie about how pretty it all looked, we saw a Heron circling the field around us. Around and around he went, huge wings stretched out and gliding silently through the air right above our heads.

"Wow!" I said.
"Yum!" Maddie said.

Then he came to settle on the ground right in front of us and watched us watching him. He was beautiful. We sat and looked at each other, not six feet between us, for about half an hour. He had no fear of me or the dog.

Eventually he disappeared back down to the river where his mate was watching too. Had this all been a flirty display to make her fall in love? I think it might have been. But it was wonderful all the same and I feel privileged to have been so close and been a part of their courting.

I never thought I'd be amazed by the nature in my own country, it's so easy to take it for granted when you see it every day, but this was truly awe inducing.

I'm sorry, I don't have a picture of the heron but here's one of Maddie instead.

Left our hearts in Hungary

Well, I'm on the plane back to sunny old Manchester! We've only been away for a week but it feels much longer. And for once, I don't feel like I need another holiday to recover! Although we've been busy and had multiple stops, I've found Hungary strangely relaxing. It could be all of the thermal pools and saunas I've been lazing around in but I think there is something much deeper. Hungary always seems quiet, the streets are bright and peaceful, the air feels clean and fresh, the people are friendly and helpful. People seem to have a lot more time here than we do at home, their pace is slower, calmer.




We spent our last two days in the beautiful historical town of Pécs. We had pushed the boat out a bit and stayed in a spa hotel. The rooms were spacious and comfortable, the restaurant food was excellent, we had full reign of the spa and best of all, there was complete silence. Just the occasional comforting chirp of crickets singing to each other at night.




We arrived mid afternoon on Sunday so we didn't bother to venture out, instead, we took full advantage of the hotel's facilities in the last of the afternoon's golden light. We had a swim, used the hot tub and tried out the sauna, which, I'm happy to report, on this occasion, did not contain any Hungarian sausage. It was lovely having the whole place to ourselves. We tried to behave, but it was hard to resist canon balling into the pool with no one to tell us off!




Yesterday we took a pleasant stroll into the town, about 30 minutes from our hotel. It was hot, 38 degrees, and we ended up taking refuge in an air conditioned mall to avoid spontaneous combustion, vampire style.




We arrived in the centre just as the light started to dip - my favourite time for exploring a city, I call it the golden hour.




It was stunning, all of the buildings were painted in lovely warm shades of yellow and rose which reflected the light beautifully, each had its own design and personality.




We spent a couple of hours wandering the streets taking in the impressive architecture.




Just when the heat was getting too much again, we happened across a little park just within the city wall; shaded by ancient chestnut trees, their leaves just starting to turn crisp and auburn were blowing around our feet.




In the centre of the park was a fountain with refreshingly cold water - just right for soothing tired feet. We spent a good deal of time there, chatting and reading our guide book.




Fully rejuvenated, we continued our walk and found ourselves on Lovers Lane. Over the years, all along this street, people have declared their love for each other by attaching padlocks to the railings with their names, important dates or a love message inscribed on them.




There were thousands and all were different; some just your standard padlocks but others were delicately engraved, some decorated with stickers and glitter, some looked oriental, some were big and some were tiny.




We took our time, reading all of the lovers' notes and absorbing the happy aura of the place.




I decided I wanted us to have a lock of our own. We found a tiny shop (more like a large cupboard) down the road where we managed to find a lock and marker pen.




I scribbled our names and our anniversary date (the reason we're in Hungary in the first place) and locked our hearts together, forever, above a lovely quote on the wall which made me happy.




When we get home, I'll write our names on the keys so we can carry each other's as a reminder.

Location:Pécs, Hungary

A fright for sore eyes

I have been scarred for life. I'll get to why in a minute, I just needed to get that off my chest.

We are travelling around Lake Balaton at the moment, yesterday we stayed in Balatonfüred which reminded me quite a lot of the Italian lakes. There was a nice promenade lined with swanky bars, restaurants and ice cream stalls. our hotel had a little beach with a swimming area so we spent the afternoon sprawled out on beach towels under the shade of a big willow tree. In the evening we had ice creams at one of the stalls - I had 1 scoop of caramel and 1 of chocolate orange (it works better than you'd think!) and ended up with it all down my arms! I don't lick fast enough!




Today we drove an hour South to Heviz which is famous for it's huge thermal swimming lake. We decided to go for the 'wellbeing' package which included use of the spa facilities.




Expecting the lake to be as warm as the thermal pools in Budapest, I launched myself into barely tepid water and nearly went under as it took my breath away. I was not impressed.

The lake was broken up by barriers and underwater gates which served as locks to keep cold and hot water from mixing. It was quite a swim out to the middle of the lake and into the island building that contained the warm bits but I was damn sure I wasn't staying out there in the cold for too long! After about an hour and a half swimming about amongst the colourful water lilies (with baby ducks at one point!) we decided to make use of the spa. First stop: sauna.




And this is where it happened. Something no 29 year old should ever have to see.

We were sat on the wooden benches trying to avoid making eye contact with anyone else in there, I was the only woman, when out of the corner of my eye I glimpsed something. Unsure at first, I then spotted another, and another and then a fourth. I looked around in horror: swinging over the sides of the benches, lined up like soldiers in a barracks waiting to fire were four seventy year old... I can't even bring myself to say it. Four old men's winkies. There, it's out! And so was I in seconds flat! I bolted out of the door so fast I almost took it off it's hinges!

I was too embarrassed to stay after that so we made a quick exit and went for ice creams in town. I sat, rocking on a park bench nibbling round the edges of my cone in silence.

Now, let's never speak of this again!

Location:Lake Balaton, Heviz

The 'other side' of the bridge

Yesterday we began the day with a delicious breakfast of French toast with red summer berries in syrup at Cafe Dumas, our new favourite place. This cost about £1.60!




Full, and with an icing sugar moustache, we crossed the bridge into Pest. We had intended to visit the Parliament building which is free to citizens of the EU.




We arrived just in time to join the back of a queue of around 1000 people stood, unshaded, in the 34 degree heat. We decided that whatever was inside probably wasn't worth getting baked alive for and quickly left the line.




The heat was unbearable and very tiring. So instead of going inside, we found a lovely shaded bench under the canopy of some trees, had a refreshing drink of water and did some people watching.

That's what most of our day consisted of: find shade, sit in it.

We had a pleasant meander through the back streets, protected from the sun by the shadow of ornate gothic buildings lining each side.




Soon we found ourselves at the Basilica of St Stephen (the first king of Hungary). Inside, we were in awe of the stunning architecture - vaulted ceilings, intricately carved stone, beautiful murals adorned everything, finer details touched with gold leaf.




At the back stood a huge golden organ so shiny it looked like it was polished hourly.




In a separate room there was a fancy bejewelled glass cabinet lit from the inside. On closer inspection we saw that it contained all that was left of St Stephen himself: his fisted, 974 year old shrivelled zombie hand, fingernails still intact (although in need of a good scrub). I hope my hands still look that good at his age!




After a very cosmopolitan lunch of a Subway sandwich and a packet of crips (I know, we're really living it up on this trip!) we decided to jump on a tram and head over to Memorial Park; the official graveyard for all of the old Soviet statues which were taken down from around Hungary at the end of the communist era in 1989. We didn't make it. We got completely lost - just goes to show, even Lonely Planet gets it wrong sometimes!

We headed back to the hotel, dumped my hefty camera equipment and wandered back down to Dumas where we commandeered a giant bean bag and a comfy lawn chair. I had an icy glass of homemade peach lemonade (delicious but I was up five times in the night after two glasses of that stuff) and rested our weary feet to watch the sun set over Budapest. Perfect!




After dinner we took our last opportunity to snap some moonlight photos of the river with boats and cars whizzing by.




The parliament building stood out against everything else and lit up the whole river. Even the "I'm loving it" sign, delightfully displayed by Mr McDonald, took a back seat in this light show.




Even at 10pm, the streets bustled with dog walkers, runners, cyclists, roller bladders and sweethearts smooching and sharing wine straight from the bottle on the walls of the banks.




This city has a pulse, the constant beat of life passing it by, and I love it!

Location:Budapest, Hungary

Hungary? I'm famished!

If you have never been to Hungary, I highly recommend that you go. Just do it. Book it. Right now!

When we arrived last night, it was already dark. We walked along the Danube watching party boats sail by with their lights glistening in the water below. All of Budapest's most impressive buildings and bridges were lit up to demonstrate their beauty. Car's lights flickered around like fireflies. A big yellow moon glowed, perfect, above. Couples and families strolling casually along the river sat on the walls to chat a while, with their dogs waiting patiently at their feet. Even tired and hungry, I could tell this was a magical place.

And I was right! When we checked in (D'art Otel), we were told that we had been given a free upgrade. They didn't say why. When we got to our room, it had double doors where all of the others only had one. This was the executive suite! One of the bathrooms is bigger than my living room! The bed is whopping, there is a living room, a study and a dance floor. Ok, I lied about the dance floor!




This morning we took the funicular up to Castle Hill on the Buda side of town. We took the back car so that we could see the landscape panning out in wide angle.




The views from the top were impressive. You can see for miles in both directions, every bridge, every building.




The castle grounds were surrounded by huge statue of birds with wings outstretched and lions standing proudly, mid roar.




We arrived at the start of a beer fest so we had a wander round looking at all of the different tipples on offer. It was before lunch so a bit early to drink any!
We were lucky enough to see the changing of the guards at the castle gates which was quite a spectacle. Think men in uniform doing synchronised gun stuff. Very nice. Ahem.




We had lunch from one of the stalls, I had chicken in mustard cream sauce with fried potatoes and onions. Delicious! I will try and replicate it when I get home!




We walked over to the cathedral which reminded me very much of St Vitus cathedral in Prague only much whiter and with a beautiful ornate roof in very Moroccan colours with zigzag and diamond patterns.




I'm seeing some kind of patchwork quilt here!




While we were there I held a hawk. Four year old 'tweeter'. She was beautiful and very well behaved.




Even when perched above my head, she didn't think to peck me (or poo)! Her wing span was about four foot.




Later, we went back down the hill to one of the famous thermal spas (Gellert Baths). The water was 36 degrees celsius, which in a colder climate would have been just what we needed. Here, though, it's 34 degrees so it didn't really help! The interior was stunning though, mosaic from floor to ceiling, with little windows in the roof to allow the light to come streaming through. There were several baths indoors and out, ranging in temperature from what felt like -62 to 36 degrees. we stayed in until we were sufficiently pruned and then ventured back out in to the golden evening sun.




The perfect end to a perfect day.

Location:Budapest